Colombia Patio Bonito, Wush Wush, Mosto anaerobic natural

Continuum. Not only is it the name of one of the greatest albums of all time, it is also a journey - from a beginning, until an end. When we look at the path that our coffee takes – there are many parts along the way that make up the continuum, and ultimately – my role as a brewer is not to make my own contribution stand out, rather act as a cog in the flow of our journey. Our producers begin this timeline as they dedicate their lives to this craft, and as a result, it’s up to me to guide the continuum to it's final stage – the cup.   

I recently attended a cupping exclusively with coffees from Finca Patio Bonito in the Caldono  region in Colombia. Not only did I get to taste some amazing coffee from the farm, but I also actually got to meet and begin my relationship with Paola Trujillo. Paola is the daughter of Carlos, who has been a coffee farmer for almost 50 years - and together, they are the team behind Patio Bonito coffees. Paola is a fermentation specialist, which has thrown this farm into the spotlight in recent years with their interesting processing methods which produce exceptionally delicious, and complex cups.  

In the later stages of preparing for this event today, I was faced with several choices of multiple standout coffees. As I stood plagued by indecision at the cupping table, my mind recalled something Paola had said to us during a presentation about her life as a producer.  

‘My mother gave me life, but my Father is the one who gave it a purpose’. 

The decision to select her coffee became extremely clear after that. I was reminded about the years and commitment that our producers put into this wonderful thing that we love to consume, and how it all starts well before – brewers like myself - add their contribution. The continuum. This is where it starts.  

Process specific:

First, a leachate is created from the fermentation of Bourbon Sidra cherries, which is used to fuel 3 separate tanks of this Wush Wush - each fermented for different lengths to create 3 levels of fermentation. 

The first tank – fermented for 24-48 hours. This yeast-dominated fermentation metabolizes  the mucilage and provides the cup with florals, brightness and clarity.  

The second tank - fermented for 48-72 hours. Lactic acid bacteria dominate this fermentation, and provides the cup with higher acidity, more structure and increased complexity.  

The final tank – fermented for 72-96 hours. Primarily an anaerobic fermentation now, the diverse microbial activity now provides higher body, increased sweetness, creamier texture and deeper fruit complexity.  

Once all fermentations have been stopped, Paola and the team combine all 3 tanks at specific ratios to complete their processing. By balancing and blending each fermentation, a deeply complex cup is achieved, with layered sweetness as well as balanced acidity and remarkable cleanness.

Talking to Paola: 

I reached out to Paola recently, and asked her what she wants me to provide from this brew and she told me this: 

“From my perspective, I'd love for you to highlight:  

From hot all the way to cold – you will taste milk chocolate and you will also taste cherry. Both delicate, and sweet.  

When the cup is hot - you will also taste red grape, with a hint of raspberry.  

At warm – the red grape turns to red berries. It softens out a bit, and becomes even more delicate.  

And as it reaches a cold temperature, you will also taste yellow stone fruit. Think cooked yellow peach. The texture will also soften, and become a silky tea-like beverage.  

Aftertaste of this coffee is also lingering and sticky, which tastes like cherry. 

The acidity is a medium intensity from hot to cool, and is predominantly mailic and phosphoric acid. 

Sweetness for this coffee is the same through all temperatures - medium plus with qualities of sweet cherry and chocolate.

The mouthfeel of this coffee at hot is juicy and round. It retains this through warm, but as it reaches cold, it becomes delicate and tea-like